Day One: Hoh Ranger Station to Olympus Ranger Station (9 Mile Camp)
Thursday morning I awoke at 4:30 AM excited for what lay ahead. I was about to spend four days in the heart of Olympic National Park climbing Mt. Olympus via an approach that would take me through the Hoh Rain Forest. In terms of terrain, this was going to be a very diverse trip.

I pulled into the Edmonds Park & Ride at 5:45 AM and waited for the others to arrive. One-by-one everyone showed up. First Lindsay, then Mike & Debbie and before you know it, Matt, Jeff and Carl were there too! We packed everyone into two cars and drove to the ferry to meet Anne, Laurel and Xin.

After crossing Puget Sound we arrived in Kingston and started our journey to the trailhead just south of Forks (on the western side of the Olympic Peninsula). On the way, Laurel’s engine seized up. Unfortunately this was the end of the trip for her and Anne, who was gracious enough to stay with Laurel while she waited for a tow truck. Xin climbed into Mike’s truck and we were off again.

We made a stop in Port Angeles at the base of Hurricane Ridge to pick up permits at the Olympic National Park Visitor’s Center. A kind ranger spent time with us sharing beta on the route. He had just completed the Bailey Range Traverse and had fresh photos of the conditions on Olympus. After that we drove west to Forks where we scarfed down a meal and talked about what was to come.

A climb of Mt. Olympus starts at the Hoh Ranger Station. When we arrived we found a nice piece of lawn to sort group gear and then visited with a climbing ranger to learn more about route conditions. After speaking with him it seemed as though the direct finish was out. The bergschrund was too large to cross. We were going to have to take the Crystal Pass variation. We thanked him for the info and bid him farewell before starting off.

Our planned destination for Thursday night was the Olympus Ranger Station, otherwise known as 9 Mile Camp. The hike into camp is some of the easiest terrain one could ever possibly imagine on an approach. We covered 9 miles of relatively flat ground in just less than four hours (with 15 minute breaks every hour). Before long we were in camp setting up the tents and cooking dinner. We enjoyed a nice campfire as we listed to the Hoh River make it’s way to the ocean.

Day Two: Olympus Ranger Station to Glacier Meadows
After a restful night and a lazy morning we climbed out of our sleeping bags around 8:00 AM. With just 9 miles and 3,000’ of elevation gain to cover on this day we felt that we could take our time and enjoy the surroundings. As we ate breakfast by the river we talked about the day ahead. After a good hour of being lazy Xin was the first to begin packing her things. Before long we were all doing the same. We were on the trail again by 10:00 AM – destination Glacier Meadows.

The first three miles (mile 9 – 12) were again relatively flat. As we walked along with ease, we moved along the river’s edge through the lush rain forest. Cedar trees 8 feet in diameter lined the trail as moss hung from the canopy above. I was in heaven. In not too long a time, the trail began its ascent to Glacier Meadows. We passed a roaring waterfall at mile 13. Shortly there after we passed the Martin Creek Campsite and before long we were taking a break at Elk Lake.

When we arrived at Elk Lake, the first thing we noticed was that the Elk Lake Emergency Shelter had a little emergency of it’s own. A large cedar tree 5-6 feet in diameter had delivered a direct blow crushing the shelter. We all wondered aloud what that must have looked like as it occurred. If a tree crushes an emergency shelter in the woods and no one is around does it make a noise?

After that we made our way down to the lake where we enjoyed a nice lunch. I enjoyed a Summer Sausage, some Snickers and M&Ms as I studied the map to see what lay ahead. The remainder of the day was looking like 2,000’ feet of elevation gain over 2.3 miles. Lindsay was kind enough to filter water for everyone as we enjoyed the sun and the cool breezes coming off the lake.

After lunch we began our final ascent to Glacier Meadows. The Olympic National Park website had reports of downed trees and hard-to-cross avalanche chutes. While we had some concern over this, a more recent report from CascadeClimbers.com indicated that the concerns were invalid. We were pleased to find that was the case for the most part. Above Elk Lake as the trail makes it’s way through meadows full of slide alder we came across snow and downed trees for the first time. Thankfully someone had taken the time to mark the trail with flagging so it was relatively easy to follow. After emerging from the trees we found ourselves on dry trail again as we crossed several empty avalanche chutes. The final avalanche chutes (not more than a mile from Glacier Meadows) was a bit of a different story. Though the snow in the chute was not at all a hazard the descent to reach the snow was dicey for some in our group. Jeff and I set up a fixed line for members of our party to do an arm rappel if that was to their liking, which several people took advantage of.

Once past the avalanche chute it was a short distance on an intermittently snow-covered trail to Glacier Meadows where we found 3-4 feet of snow covering the ground. We took time to level tent sites with a shovel while Carl found a home for his bivy sack for the next two nights in the emergency shelter. Before long the tents were set up, gear was stowed away and we were cooking dinner while we talked about the plans for summit day.

Day Three: Summit Day
We awoke at the predetermined time of 3:00 AM. The plan was to be moving by 3:30 AM. It was likely going to take us 6-8 hours to reach the summit and I felt it would be a good idea to be on top by 12 Noon, sooner if possible. As we started out of camp we quickly lost the flagging that marked the trail to the lateral moraine of the Blue Glacier. Jeff and I stumbled around in the dark while the others waited. With no luck in finding the flagging Jeff and I each took a bearing and settled on 145°. Within a few minutes of following the proper bearing we were back on the trail and headed for the glacier. We made our way up a steep snow slope as the sun came up and revealed the mountain before us. Despite a little bit of precipitation and wind it was looking as though it was going to be a fine day.

We quickly gained the lateral moraine and descended to the snow slopes just above the glacier. He we strapped on crampons, donned helmets, and roped up. With the Blue Glacier laid out before us in all of it’s glory, we made our way towards the slopes that would take us to the crest of Snow Dome. On the far side of the glacier we took a quick break for some food as we watched the sun poke through the clouds above Mercury (6,950’).

After a few snow pitches, some of them through driving snow and wind, we reached the crest of Snow Dome at 6,600’. Here we traversed the dome as we made our way towards Crystal Pass in a near whiteout. Several times I considered turning us around as we made our way across Snow Dome. Since we had come such a long way, and the route was marked well with our own wands, we decided that it would be best to take a bearing for what we hoped would take us to Crystal Pass. We were of course operating on the safe assumption that our altimeters were revealing the correct elevation, allowing us to determine a relative position on the map. If we found Crystal Pass we were going to reassess our ability to safely make the summit and return to camp. Along the way the conditions eased up and the summit came into view, which would surely made the impending decision even more difficult. Before long unfortunately that decision was made for us. As Carl came face to face with the bergschrund we realized that our position on the map was a bit off causing our bearing to be ineffective. A combination of weather and circumstance made the decision for me. It was time to turn around.

As we retraced our steps in disappointment removing the wands as we progressed, I knew that it was the right decision. Though painful to make, as we had already invested two and a half days and 22 miles at the point of turn-around, I knew that to continue onward would have been asking for an epic. We quickly made our way back to the edge of Snow Dome and descended the snow slopes to the Blue Glacier. Before long we were crossing the relatively flat glacier as we made our way towards the lateral moraine and eventually camp. Somewhere along the way I felt water make it’s way into my boots despite the fact that I was wearing gators. Rain had eventually soaked my pants. The water had made it’s way into my socks and down into my boots. The situation was the same for everyone.

With boots full of sloshing water we untied from the ropes, packed our gear, and ascended the moraine. In due time we were back in camp. We huddled inside the shelter and removed our wet gear as we pondered a day that we would soon be spending in our tents. I changed into my rain pants and hung my socks, long underwear and pants to dry. Others took stoves and hot water bottles to their clothing in the hope that it would remove some of the moisture. This method worked quite well for a few people. As I lay in my sleeping bag I slowly drifted off to sleep. Soon Matt and Jeff joined me inside the tent where we spent the afternoon dozing and hoping that tomorrow would bring good weather for the march out.

Over dinner we again gathered in the emergency shelter as wet clothing lay everywhere in the hopes that it would soon dry. We sat and ate as we watched the rain fall on the tents by the bucket load. Soon we were back inside them as the pitter-patter of the drops lulled me off to sleep.

Day Four: Glacier Meadows to Hoh Ranger Station
When I awoke at around 7:00 AM I was relieved to hear silence. The rain that had wreaked havoc on our group’s ability to summit was going to spare us some misery on the way out. We ate and packed camp and were moving by 8:30 AM. We quickly reached the avalanche slope and set up a hand line for members of the party to use as they ascended the talus. Once clear of the obstacle our group continued the descent. We agreed that if we became separated the next meet-up would occur at Elk Lake.

At Elk Lake we enjoyed a short break. Eager to make our way out and home to our loved ones we were quick to set off again agreeing that we would regroup at the bridge and then again at Olympus Ranger Station.

At Olympus Ranger Station we enjoyed a nice lunch that lasted about an hour. I took some time to apply additional tape to blisters that I had developed as a result of wet boots from the previous day. Though I was eager to cover the final 9 flat miles I knew that the pain in my feet was only going to increase as time spent in wet boots and friction would only make the blisters worse.

After an hour’s time we set off again agreeing to regroup at Five Mile Camp. In just over an hour’s time we reached our destination. Looking at Jeff’s face as he pulled into camp I could tell that I was not the only one suffering form some very sore feet. Jeff’s toes were in the same shape as mine only his boots did not fit him quite as well as mine fit me making his situation even worse. As we prepared to leave I downed three Aleve and decided that was going to push on for at least three of the final five miles before stopping. As a group we agreed to meet up at the cars.

In an hour’s time I covered three miles and reached the two-mile mark. Quick hellos to day hikers were now a common occurrence. With my spirits elevated from the relative closeness of the cars and some pain relief from the meds, I decided to push on and not prolong my agony. In 40 minutes time I reached the cars and let out three loud “yee-haws!” The journey was over.